A Hands-On Look at the Expansion of This Breguet Marine Collection

15/05/2018

This year, Breguet decided to focus almost entirely on building out its Marine collection. There was, obviously, the customary Reine de Naples inclusion, and two brand new Classique Extra-Plat models, one with a tourbillon and one without, but there is no doubt that Breguet intends on making the Marine Collection its own headliner for 2018. Joining past year's Marchante Équation of Time 5887 are 3 new time-and-date only versions, three new chronographs, and also three brand new minute repeaters.

The Breguet Marine Marchante Équation of Time 5887
The decision to expand this collection makes sense. As a brand which has a lot invested in its heritage, there's only so many tourbillons and double tourbillons you can release before collectors decide they need something a little less frenetic about the wrist. This expansion is not just a new style for Breguet; it is tied directly into the foundation of the brand and its creator, Abraham-Louis Breguet, as well. Way back in December of 1814, a royal decree named A.L. Breguet a part of the Bureau des Longitudes at Paris, a body which comprised astronomers, geophysicists, and physicists. About a year later, in October of 1815, Breguet was christened the official "Watchmaker to the Royal Navy" by King Louis XVIII of France. This was one of the most prestigious names that a watchmaker could receive given the onerous nature of maritime horology. The relationship between Breguet and the Navy continued after Breguet passed 1823 with his son Antoine-Louis continued to represent the marque for decades later.

Abraham-Louis Breguet

Now, onto the watches.

The chronograph models, also called Marine Chronograph 5527, come in 3 distinct case materials: rose gold, titanium, and 18k white gold. The increased- and the white-gold models feature a guilloché wave theme across the middle of the dial that might be familiar if you recall the 5887. The titanium version features a beautiful sunburst slate grey dial.

The minutes counter is at 3 o'clock, the hours counter at 6 o'clock, and the small seconds subdial at 9 o'clock. There's a date window between 4 and 5 o'clock. Each 42-mm version is individually numbered and signed by Breguet. The watch features Roman numerals and the faceted Breguet palms are made from gold and applied with lume. The caseband is well fluted. The fundamental chronograph seconds hand is motivated by century-old maritime codes. All three models come with either a rubber or leather strap. In the watches is your self-winding Caliber 582QA that has a 48-hour power book and an inverted inline lever escapement with silicon horns. In addition, it offers a silicon balance spring.

The titanium model is priced at $22,600 and the white and rose gold are both priced at $28,700.

Next up, the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547. This minute repeating trio follows the exact same material and dial layout mixes as the chronograph models with a guilloché wave dial on the white and rose gold versions and sunburst slate gray dial to the titanium. At 3 o'clock, there's an alarm subdial and, at 9 o'clock, a time-zone screen. It is possible to find the alarm-activation indication in a aperture at 12 o'clock along with the date at 6 o'clock. Ultimately, there's a striking mechanism power reserve between 9 and 12 o'clock. Despite the watch being only 40 mm in diameter and also the huge array of functions and indicators on the dial, the watch is surprisingly sober. It never fails to impress me how Breguet can streamline its aesthetic in this consistent way.

The Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 in rose gold with a white dial.
Within the watch is the self-winding Caliber 519F/1 with a 45-hour power book, inverted in-lever escapement in silicon, and silicon equilibrium spring. All 3 models include either a leather or rubber strap.
The titanium version is priced at $28,600 and the rose and white gold versions are priced at $40,900.

Finally, the Marine 5517 is time-and-date only and comes in the same three substances and dial combinations. What is truly eye-catching is that despite how beautiful the guilloché wave dial is, the uncomplicated titanium gray model actually stands out as the sporty alternate for this collection. I'm not suggesting you wear your Breguet to the gym, but if there were the opportunity, lightweight titanium wouldn't be the worst choice.

The Breguet Marine 5517 in titanium.

Inside the watch is your mechanical self-winding Caliber 777A with a 55-hour power book, inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns, and silicon balance spring.  For more information click Citizen Chandler Gold Dial